Thursday, October 06, 2005

The Foreign Correspondents Club of Cambodia, http://www.fcccambodia.com/, is, on its surface, unchanged from when I first sat in its big wooden lounge chairs eleven years ago. I have posted parts of my journal from 1994 at the beginning of this blog to create a frame of reference. I wrote about a restaurant called the Déja Vu. It was right across the street from the Khmer Rouge headquarters. It was one of maybe three places that had good western food in a stylish colonial atmosphere (the others being the Café No Problem, the FCC, and maybe the Cathouse). Kelly and Anthony were the proprietors. In the intervening years they took over the FCC and in collaboration with an Australian Hotel Group, expanded into Siem Reap, Yangoon, and Kampot with very nicely designed Hotels. So for my first three nights in Cambodia I booked a room at the FCC. They name the rooms after temples at Angkor, I was in the Bayon room. Over the very comfortable and spacious bed is a beautiful panorama of the temple framed between two riveted panes of glass. After washing up, I called Lida and then Martin, to let them know I had arrived. Martin said he was near-by, and would I like to go to a new bar across the bridge. I said yes. He picked me up in front of the FCC. We sped across the Japanese Friendship bridge on his cross-country motorbike, down a few darkened streets on the peninsula to the riverside. There was no sign but Martin referred to it as Snow’s, although I would later learn it was called Maxine’s. It was basically a wooden boat perched on the bank of the river, with a wrap around balcony, all tastefully decorated with small Khmer bells and christmas lights, dark wood, low beams, a simple bar, and some loungey couches. About ten to fifteen people were scattered around the place. we approached the bar, where I recognized Michael Hayes, the publisher of the Phnom Penh Post. Martin made introductions, and I met Snow, the proprietor, who was behind the bar. I recognized him from the movie ‘City of Ghosts’. The bar was named after his precocious daughter whom I would meet in the next few days.

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